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One of the many things that drew me to the 3D printing process is its versatility. Whether you need to prototype a mechanism, make a repair part, create a series of end-use parts, or make a piece of art, odds are that you can do it -- or at least get started -- with (the right) 3D printing technology. Art isn't something that we have the chance to pursue very often at POP given our typical schedule rushing mechanical parts out the door, but we recently had some time to make a piece for the shop that we think is worth highlighting.
We are often asked about vapor smoothing, and wanted to write a quick article describing how it works, as well when we recommend using it. The process involves suspending FDM prints in a cloud of solvent vapor, which condenses on the print in a uniform film, melting the outer surfaces of the part, smoothing and fusing layers together. It also greatly enhances the sheen of the part, resulting in a glossy finish.
What’s the best material for PolyJet 3D printing? The short answer, as you might have guessed, is “it depends!” What are your requirements for strength, flexibility, temperature resistance, color, and price point? All of these factors influence material selection. With digital materials, we can even create custom materials (specific shore hardness rubber like materials and colors) as needed.
What’s the best material for FDM 3D printing? The short answer is “It depends”. What are your requirements for strength, flexibility, UV and temperature resistance, color, and price point? All of these factors influence material selection.
What’s the difference between FDM and PolyJet? Which is best for your design? What factors in a design make it better suited for one process or the other? Today, we’ll answer these questions and more.
We all know that FDM technology can make pretty tough parts, with genuine engineering-grade polymers like ABS, polycarbonate, and even Ultem (PEI) plastics. Building these materials within a precisely heated chamber, a la Stratasys, with servo-controlled extrusion ensures that even z-strength, which is the weakest direction of FDM printing, is as high as possible. Just how strong are these parts? We put a couple of exotic materials to the test to find out!
We are often asked how to design files for our full color 3D printer, the J750. The process depends entirely on what the goal of the project is, and in which CAD environment the part is being created. For gradients and intricate color patterns, for example, it can be necessary to use an animation-friendly software like Blender. But for typical engineering applications, Fusion 360 (or other CAD programs) is all you need. Here's a quick tutorial to show you how!
It’s beyond doubt that Bambu produces incredible 3D printers. They make absolutely beautiful parts right out of the box, with an ease of use that is practically unparalleled across hobbyist and even professional 3D printers. But how do they stack up against Stratasys FDM?
“Digital Materials,” as Stratasys calls them, are combinations of 1 or more discrete resins that are jetted together to create a unique mixture (and hence mechanical properties) within a part. This is not the same as pre-blending resins and then feeding them into a printhead or SLA vat – it’s something unique to material jetting as the digital materials can be adjusted on the fly, without any additional purging or preparation needed. It’s an amazing technology that proves useful across multiple applications, outlined below.
At POP we are often asked for recommendations about threading plastic 3D printed parts. Tapping is an option, but we rarely recommend it. Plastic threads, even if cut perfectly, are inherently fragile compared to their metal counterparts. In addition, cutting them is time consuming (and therefore expensive). 3D printing them directly isn’t a great shortcut because getting the fit just right is tough, and supporting/cleaning threads can be challenging. It can reduce thread strength as well, relative to cut threads.
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